{"id":14661,"date":"2025-01-31T02:59:54","date_gmt":"2025-01-31T02:59:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/inside-gordon-brothers-asset-light-strategy-to-rejuvenate-the-laura-ashley-brand\/"},"modified":"2025-01-31T02:59:54","modified_gmt":"2025-01-31T02:59:54","slug":"inside-gordon-brothers-asset-light-strategy-to-rejuvenate-the-laura-ashley-brand","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/inside-gordon-brothers-asset-light-strategy-to-rejuvenate-the-laura-ashley-brand\/","title":{"rendered":"Inside Gordon Brothers\u2019 \u2018Asset-Light\u2019 Strategy to Rejuvenate the Laura Ashley Brand"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> <p><a href=\"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/online-workshops-list\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-496\" src=\"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/RETAIL-ONLINE-TRAINING-728-X-90.png\" alt=\"Retail Online Training\" width=\"729\" height=\"91\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/RETAIL-ONLINE-TRAINING-728-X-90.png 729w, https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/RETAIL-ONLINE-TRAINING-728-X-90-300x37.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 729px) 100vw, 729px\" \/><\/a><\/p><br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<p><strong>Gordon Brothers<\/strong> is most commonly known for its work helping companies through bankruptcy, handling things like restructuring, financing and asset liquidation. But recently, a lesser-known division of Gordon Brothers found itself in the spotlight when the company sold the iconic British brand <strong>Laura Ashley<\/strong> to brand management firm <strong>Marquee<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>The deal was managed by Gordon Brothers\u2019 Brand Division, which had spent the previous <strong>four<\/strong> years revitalizing Laura Ashley after its 2020 bankruptcy. Carolyn D\u2019Angelo, Senior Managing Director of Brand Operations at Gordon Brothers and former President of Laura Ashley, said that <strong>Gordon Brothers\u2019 brand management unit flies a bit \u201cunder the radar,\u201d and the company is okay with that.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cOur strategy is to buy and sell,\u201d D\u2019Angelo explained in an interview with <em>Retail TouchPoints<\/em>. \u201cDifferent from [other brand management firms like] Iconix or Marquee or Authentic, <strong>we buy brands with the intent of selling them at some point in the future.<\/strong> We look for brands that have a heritage, maybe have lost their way, maybe need some marketing expertise, maybe need to change the model and be moved from an operating company into an asset-light model. We look for brands that we believe have growth potential, not only in their core territory, like the UK, but in other territories around the world.\u201d<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-large is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1280\" height=\"1280\" src=\"https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/A1y8tbx66GL._AC_SL1500_-1280x1280.jpg\" alt=\"Laura Ashley bedding set\" class=\"wp-image-149729\" style=\"width:264px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/A1y8tbx66GL._AC_SL1500_-1280x1280.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/A1y8tbx66GL._AC_SL1500_-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/A1y8tbx66GL._AC_SL1500_-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/A1y8tbx66GL._AC_SL1500_-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/A1y8tbx66GL._AC_SL1500_-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/A1y8tbx66GL._AC_SL1500_.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1280px) 100vw, 1280px\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Image courtesy Laura Ashley<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<p>Laura Ashley certainly fit that bill. After nearly <strong>70<\/strong> years in operation, the \u201cquintessentially British\u201d brand, known best for its colorful floral prints, found itself in dire straights during the pandemic and became one of the first retail casualties of COVID-19 in the UK. Gordon Brothers was working with the UK administrator to take the brand through the bankruptcy process, and when the Laura Ashley IP went up for sale the company decided to acquire it.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Moving from Vertical Operations to \u2018Asset-Light\u2019<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Gordon Brothers then set to work reimagining Laura Ashley\u2019s business model, while ensuring it stayed top-of-mind with consumers through a combination of product licensing and marketing activations. <strong>The biggest shift for the brand involved moving to what D\u2019Angelo describes as an \u201casset-light\u201d model<\/strong> \u2014 meaning that the company no longer owns most of its operations but instead partners with third parties to run its stores and create its products under strict brand guidelines. The brand makes most of its money through royalties rather than direct sales, but it also relieves itself of the financial and operational burden of running stores and designing and selling products.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cPrior to the bankruptcy, [Laura Ashley] was a vertical operation,\u201d said D\u2019Angelo. \u201cThey had company-owned stores, and most product categories were being sourced vertically, so they owned the inventory. They did very little, if any, licensing at all. But the interesting thing about when we bought the brand is that we turned some of those vertical manufacturers into licensees, so that worked out very nicely.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a process that Gordon Brothers has gone through before. In 2017, the company completed a similar turnaround of the <strong>Polaroid<\/strong> brand, selling it to Polish investor Wiaczes\u0142aw Smo\u0142okowski after <strong>eight<\/strong> years of ownership following the brand\u2019s 2008 bankruptcy. With Laura Ashley now in the hands of Marquee, Gordon Brothers currently has <strong>two<\/strong> brands under management \u2014 fashion label <strong>Nicole Miller<\/strong> and the more recently acquired <strong>120<\/strong>-year-old German consumer electronics and lifestyle brand <strong>Telefunken<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s really fun and energizing to rejuvenate and reimagine these brands,\u201d said D\u2019Angelo. \u201cI love watching them grow and watching the success.\u201d<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Relaunching and Repositioning a Bankrupt Brand<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"800\" src=\"http:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x.webp\" alt=\"Laura Ashley x Rag &amp; Bone\" class=\"wp-image-149731 lazyload\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1024px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1024\/800;width:369px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x-600x469.webp 600w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x-768x600.webp 768w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"800\" src=\"http:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x.webp\" alt=\"Laura Ashley x Rag &amp; Bone\" class=\"wp-image-149731\" style=\"width:369px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x.webp 1024w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x-600x469.webp 600w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/ragbonexlauraashleyfloralhoodie-1024x800@2x-768x600.webp 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><\/noscript><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Laura Ashley x Rag &amp; Bone (Image courtesy Laura Ashley)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<p>D\u2019Angelo is no stranger to the world of brand management; she has spent her career at the largest firms in this discipline, beginning with Iconix in 2007, followed by Sequential Brands Group and eventually Marquee Brands, to which Laura Ashley was sold. When asked if the sale of Laura Ashley to Marquee had anything to do with her having previously worked there, D\u2019Angelo said it was just a \u201cweird coincidence,\u201d but that it does give her confidence in the brand\u2019s future: \u201cI obviously know a lot of the players at Marquee, and I was very happy to see where Laura Ashley was going because I know they\u2019re really good brand stewards,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n<p>But it took some work to get the brand there. Over the course of the <strong>four<\/strong> years that it owned the brand, Gordon Brothers relaunched, repositioned and expanded Laura Ashley, eventually reaching the point where it was generating over <strong>$750 million<\/strong> in retail sales annually.<\/p>\n<p>That work began in 2021 through a strategic relaunch at UK retailer <strong>Next<\/strong>. \u201cIt was really important to relaunch in the UK with a premier retailer like Next that not only had brick-and-mortar, but also had an amazing ecommerce business,\u201d said D\u2019Angelo.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Keeping Laura Ashley in the Public Eye<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Today the brand has <strong>150<\/strong> brick-and-mortar locations, including shops in <strong>60<\/strong> Next locations, approximately <strong>60<\/strong> stores in South Korea operated by a licensee, additional licensed stores in Japan and a few stores in Spain operated under a franchise agreement. Under Gordon Brothers\u2019 stewardship, the brand also has expanded its presence to <strong>80<\/strong> countries, including re-entering Australia and New Zealand, launching in South Korea and making its Chinese debut through a collaboration with the fashion retailer <strong>Peacebird<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1213\" height=\"696\" src=\"http:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu.png\" alt=\"The EU homepage of Laura Ashley\" class=\"wp-image-149732 lazyload\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 1213px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 1213\/696;width:447px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu.png 1213w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu-600x344.png 600w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu-768x441.png 768w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 1213px) 100vw, 1213px\"\/><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1213\" height=\"696\" src=\"http:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu.png\" alt=\"The EU homepage of Laura Ashley\" class=\"wp-image-149732\" style=\"width:447px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu.png 1213w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu-600x344.png 600w, https:\/\/www.retailtouchpoints.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Laura-Ashley-eu-768x441.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1213px) 100vw, 1213px\"\/><\/noscript><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Image courtesy Laura Ashley<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<p>In Europe, Gordon Brothers also developed an innovative ecommerce strategy: \u201cGordon Brothers was not prepared to run a [multinational] ecommerce site, so we did a test in Europe,\u201d explained D\u2019Angelo. \u201cWe had <strong>four<\/strong> countries \u2014 France, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium \u2014 where <strong>we developed an ecommerce presence that drove to retailers in the region.<\/strong> So if you\u2019re in France and you go to LauraAshley.eu, you\u2019ll get to the site in French. It looks beautiful, it looks just like the Laura Ashley site, then when you go to buy the product, you will be driven to a retailer of your choice to [finalize the sale]. It\u2019s been really successful.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In addition to building out the brand\u2019s licensing roster and retail partnerships, some of the most important work D\u2019Angelo and her team did was on the marketing side of the equation. \u201cWe\u2019re a very big believer in marketing, especially on a brand level,\u201d said D\u2019Angelo. \u201c<strong>You have to make sure that your brands stay relevant, that they stay in the public eye and there\u2019s a demand. <\/strong>What we\u2019ve done with Laura Ashley, and other brands in our portfolio, is make sure that it stayed at the forefront of the consumer\u2019s mind.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>In addition to more standard marketing of new products and collections, for the Laura Ashley brand this also took the form of collaborations with brands such as <strong>Lucky Brand<\/strong> and <strong>Rag &amp; Bone<\/strong> (both also managed by brand firms, Authentic and WHP Global, respectively). Gordon Brothers also coordinated Laura Ashley activations at events including the 2023 Chelsea Flower Show, a takeover during the Formula 1 British Grand Prix, and a fashion relaunch with a special edition collection for the brand\u2019s <strong>70th<\/strong> anniversary in 2023.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>The Asset-Light Model Isn\u2019t for Everyone<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Laura Ashley is far from the first iconic brand to find new life via an IP-based operating model. The major brand management firms\u2019 rosters abound with familiar names that many consumers may not even realize are now run this way \u2014 <strong>A\u00e9ropostale<\/strong>, <strong>Lucky Brand<\/strong>, <strong>Toys \u2018R\u2019 Us<\/strong>, <strong>Eddie Bauer<\/strong>, <strong>Reebok<\/strong> and <strong>Vera Wang<\/strong>, to name just a few.<\/p>\n<p>Which begs the question, why wouldn\u2019t every brand want to run its business this way? The financial risks are minimal, the operational costs are light and, when done well, consumers can\u2019t really tell the difference.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhen I worked for Iconix, which was the original brand management company, <strong>it was a fascinating and revolutionary idea that the brand itself was a very valuable asset<\/strong>,\u201d said D\u2019Angelo. \u201cBut in order to be successful with this model, and I\u2019ve been doing this for a long time, you can\u2019t just own the brand and say [to licensees], \u2018You do all the heavy lifting and we\u2019re just going to sit here and collect a check.\u2019 You\u2019ve got to market the brand.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>As D\u2019Angelo pointed out, <strong>many brands, especially in the luxury sector, choose to take this approach only for certain categories.<\/strong> Eyewear and fragrance are particularly popular \u201cbecause those are two mega-categories that a lot of people, for example, don\u2019t really want to open their own fragrance house, so they\u2019ll license it to somebody [who\u2019s an expert],\u201d said D\u2019Angelo.<\/p>\n<p>Additionally, licensing out your brand means <strong>ceding some control<\/strong> of product design, and even ecommerce and store experiences in some cases, to third-party licensees, which not all brands feel comfortable with, particularly if they are successfully running things vertically.<\/p>\n<p>Not to mention that <strong>not every brand has an IP that is strong enough to license.<\/strong> \u201cThe brand has to have some form of emotional connection to the consumer,\u201d said D\u2019Angelo. \u201cThe consumer has got to want the brand and there\u2019s got to be a design aesthetic. If I say <strong>Ralph Lauren<\/strong>, you know what the bedding is going to look like. <strong>A brand has to have that emotional connection, and that takes some time.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt can be really hard for a new brand to start licensing, because your licensees want to know what they are paying a royalty for,\u201d D\u2019Angelo added. \u201c<strong>That\u2019s why for us, when we look at brands we want to invest in, it\u2019s about a heritage.<\/strong> There\u2019s a defined aesthetic, there\u2019s a consumer demand.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p><p><a href=\"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/online-workshops-list\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-496\" src=\"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/RETAIL-ONLINE-TRAINING-728-X-90.png\" alt=\"Retail Online Training\" width=\"729\" height=\"91\" srcset=\"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/RETAIL-ONLINE-TRAINING-728-X-90.png 729w, https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/05\/RETAIL-ONLINE-TRAINING-728-X-90-300x37.png 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 729px) 100vw, 729px\" \/><\/a><\/p><br \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Gordon Brothers is most commonly known for its work helping companies through bankruptcy, handling things like restructuring, financing and asset liquidation. But recently, a lesser-known [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14662,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14661","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-podcasts"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14661","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14661"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14661\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/14662"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14661"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14661"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dmsretail.com\/RetailNews\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14661"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}